Petra has always been a place that I wanted to see. I didn’t know much about it but I knew that it was like no other place that I had ever been to. I had always thought that Petra was just one attraction, The Treasury (Al Khazna). When we got there we learned that there was so much more. There are miles and miles of trails, roads and places to explore. From the Siq, The Treasury and all the way to the Monastery (Ad Deir). Petra was once an entire city of communities, traders and nomads.

History

They do not know exactly when Petra was built, but they can date it back as far as the 1st century BC. A flourishing city, it was used by many rulers. However, by the 7th century Petra was completely abandoned, but used occasionally by the Bedouin. The Bedouin are nomads and there are still Bedouin today that live in tents and roam with their herds. Sheep, goats and camels are kept by the Bedouin. No camel rides as they are prized possession for their milk and babies. When driving throughout Jordan, you can see a lot of temporary settlements. Men walk with the herd and when it is time to move they pack up and have trucks relocate their tents and belongings while the others stay with the herd. The weather depends on where they are.

It wasn’t until 1812 that Petra was ‘rediscovered’ and became a tourist destination like it is today.

Main Attractions and Map

Start at the main entrance where you get tickets, a drink, see a map and the local pups!

There are multiple hikes that you can do throughout the complex. Most are considered hard because there can be decent elevation gain and usually on uneven rocks. I would highly suggest bringing a walking stick if you have any balance issues or need help with being on your feet. After you buy your ticket, you will have a short walk past some vendor stalls to where they scan your ticket. From here to The Treasury is only 1.5 miles, but they do have golf carts for a cost. As of this article, it is CASH ONLY. You can do one way or round trip. If you are able, try to walk to The Treasury as it is beautiful and there are a few stops along the way. It is also downhill to the The Treasury.

There are mule and horse rides, but please do not partake. The owners will harass you and say it is part of your admission, but just continue on.

Here are the attractions in Petra that you cannot miss!

Djinn Blocks and The Siq

That first 1.5 miles is so much fun with seeing your first rock cut temple, Djinn Blocks and then making your way to The Siq. The Siq is a narrow gorge (slot canyon). There used to be an arch as you entered, but time has taken that away. What you do get is the beautiful towering rock walls, water channels that were used thousands of years ago and multiple carvings. The rock walls will lead you right to The Treasury!

Al-Khazneh, the Treasury

One of the most amazing sites we have seen yet. It was awesome to reach it at the end of the slot canyon. Believed to be one of the first buildings built it is covered in friezes, figures, capitals and an urn at the top. Legend has that the urn signifies that a Pharaoh kept their treasures there.

The Royal Tombs

After the treasury it is all hiking, climbing and foot work from there. The first attraction we went to was The Royal Tombs. Four beautiful rock cut royal tombs line the wall. What we didn’t expect were the cats at each location. They seemed to have their spots and when you thought it was going to be hard to leave because they would follow, they didn’t cross a certain line. This was a good thing because Kevin fell in love with one of them!

Great Temple

The Great Temple was next and just a little ways down the way. The total size of this temple was 7,000 square meters and included walkways, rooms, the temple and a theater that could seat hundreds. Built by the Nabataeans in the 1st century BC, they added their own unique style to this temple.

Lunch/Bathrooms

Right after the Great Temple you will pass Qasr al-Bint an old monument and then there is a restaurant with outdoor seating and bathrooms across the way. The chicken schwarma and fries were actually really good! It was nice to grab lunch and a cold soda and have access to a bathroom.

The mule owners will harass you again here because this is where the hike to the Monastery begins. Again, please say no, as these animals are not well cared for. Mules are used because of the elevation and rocks that horses are not good with. However, you can still feel the discomfort of the mules and when they are scared. It is not a good feeling nor is it fun to witness.

Ad-Deir, the Monastery

The climb to the Monastery has you climbing uneven rock steps along towering rock walls. Along the way vendors have set up stalls with items to buy, drinks and some food. They are not nearly as bad as any places we went to in Egypt, but it still was a bit odd at some points.

After 200+ steps you will reach the top. Funny enough you don’t even see the Monastery at first, but just a stall where you can buy snacks and a drink. You have to do a u-turn and then you will see the most amazing site ever. We preferred this to The Treasury. Once you do see it sitting at 48 meters high, you almost do a double take to make sure it is actually there.

You had the opportunity to buy a drink and a snack and relax. Well, so we thought. We unfortunately had to watch a mule guide make some questionable actions, a dog fight ensued (we literally thought a dog and a cat were going to be seriously injured) and a few people playing really loud music. Locals did not get involved with the animals fighting. A woman tourist actually got up and was able to break it up.

Aside from that this was a beautiful spot that I still smile when I see pictures.

It is easy from here as it is all downhill. If you have some time, make sure to stop at the High Place of Sacrifice. This area on the plateau of a mountain was used during many religious ceremonies.

Then it is back past The Treasury and through the slot canyon to the entrance, where you can get another cold drink and a beer!

If you have time make sure to check out the Visitor Center and Museum. With Viking they brought us from the hotel to the entrance by our bus. We arrived around 9am and the next bus back wasn’t until 2:00 pm. So for a few people that took the golf cart to The Treasury and back, they had some time and enjoyed the museum.

Tips to Visiting Petra

Bathrooms – There was very little tipping at bathrooms in this country. Bathrooms are free to use at public places and restaurants. You will notice as a female that most women use the hose to spray themselves off and dab with toilet paper then throw it away instead of flushing it down the toilet.

Golf Carts – This was a great option for people that were less mobile. As I mentioned, you can do one way or round trip and it is cash only. Our guide was trying to tell the man to start taking credit cards. He seemed to not really care. It can be a bumpy ride, so let the driver know to take it slower.

Cash/Card – It is good to have both on hand. There seems to be different accounts of when you can and cannot use your credit card. The Jordan Dinar is very strong so they do not like taking $1 USD bills, even as tips!

Animals – The stray animals seemed to be cared for a little better here and there were fewer than Egypt. There were also fewer camel rides. The only people you say paying to ride camels at The Treasury were wanna be influences who would flip their hair as they rode in a small circle. The mules and horses, however, are not in great condition. Tied to poles in the sun without food and water. The handlers also did not treat them well. Hitting them with their hands and sticks and pushing them along steep walkways.

Vendors – The vendors in Jordan and Petra were not nearly as bad as Egypt. They would say “good deal” and that was about it.

English – English was spoken here a lot more than Egypt. Most knew enough to answer your basic questions and get you on your way.

Hotels – The Movenpick hotel is right across the street from the entrance to Petra. Viking used to have their guests stay there until people complained that is was outdated and there were not great food options. It was very conveniently located. We stayed at the Marriott. It was a 15 minute drive up and had beautiful views, but the food was not great. When you were at the hotel there wasn’t much to do.

Depending on when you are in Petra, the hours are different and they are usually closed by sunset. Especially during Ramadan. There is a cave bar on site but because it was Ramadan it didn’t open. If you are not in Petra you are at the hotel as there isn’t anything else to do in the city.

Security on Tours – Depending on how big your tour group is you are required to have a security guard with you on the bus. I think it was 20-25 or more you had to have a guard. He was with us from the Dead Sea to Petra and then back to Amman. We did not have an escort to Jerash.

Flying into Jordan – Make sure to read our previous Jordan post about flying into Jordan and going through customs. They have some items that you are absolutely not allowed to bring into Jordan.

Read about it HERE.

Explore Jerash

If you have time for another stop, make sure to check out Jerash. Just an hour north of Amman, you can make a day trip to see the famous Archeological site of old Jerash. The theater was by far the best attraction!

It was pretty cool to learn how the Greeks worked on Earthquake prevention when building the columns. There were some that had fallen and they were built earlier before they knew they had to do something different.

You are likely flying into and out of Amman. We highly suggest staying at the Fairmont Amman. It was one of the most beautiful hotels we stayed in. The rooms were large but cozy and perfectly laid out.

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