One of the most popular national parks in the United States, this park gets almost 5 million visitors each year. The stats get even more astounding, but believable. Of that 5 million visitors only 5% venture below the rim and only 1% make it to the bottom! It is even a smaller percentage of people who hike down and back up without assistance of a mule! This visit, that was our goal. We wanted to visit the famous Phantom Ranch where you can stay a night if you want or just use it as a aid station to fill the water bottles, grab a snack and a cup of their famous lemonade!

The decision to do this hike should not be taken lightly. The park has warnings all over about how dangerous this hike can be and how strenuous. About 250 people each year are rescued through their Search and Rescue team. As you get lower it gets hotter, a lot hotter. If it is 82 degrees on the rim, it is probably 102 degrees on the floor. Plus, as a reminder, if you go down, you must come up. We were looking forward to the challenge and it would be a great training hike for the season. There was a bit more planning than I was expecting so if you are interested in this incredible bucket list hike, here is the information that we gathered to be successful in completing what could be a once in a lifetime experience.

Hike South Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch to Bright Angel Trail in Grand Canyon National Park

Total Miles: 18 ♦ Total Elevation Loss: 5,135′ ♦ Total Elevation Gain 4,875′ ♦ Starting Elevation: ~7,000′

There are a lot of epic hikes that you can do in Grand Canyon National Park. Hike the entire rim of the Grand Canyon, do a rim-to-rim or rim-to-rim-to-rim! A lot more planning and endurance than I had the mental or physical stamina for. The hike we planned was intimidating enough for me. We read a lot and we made most of our decisions on how comfortable we were and our expectations of our current physical ability.

There are three major trails that you can decide to start the hike from. Two from the South Rim and one from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. North Rim is a lot longer and the weather can be a lot more unpredictable. We decided on the South Rim for the length. I am more of a fan of “loop” trails and the South Rim offers that with starting at the South Kaibab Trail and then returning on the Bright Angel Trail.

After we made our decision to start on the South Rim, we had to figure out parking. Specifically where we could park the night before for free to get to the early early shuttle.

Parking to Hike to Phantom Ranch in Grand Canyon National Park

There is no parking at the South Kaibab Trail so the best options are near the Bright Angel Lodge or the Visitor Center. Both locations have shuttles to get you to the South Kaibab Trail. We chose being closer to the Bright Angel Lodge so when we finished our RV would be right there waiting for us. I would rather take a shuttle at the beginning than after I finally reach the top. I just want to be done!

To get to the South Kaibab Trailhead, you will need to catch the express shuttle at Bright Angel Lodge or the Orange Line at the Visitor Center. The express shuttle is more limited in timing, so to make sure when the first, last and the timing. Here is the Grand Canyon National Park’s shuttle information page: CLICK HERE There are multiple parking lots at each location, so make sure to plan accordingly as you may have about a 5-10 minute walk.

If you choose Bright Angel Lodge, there is a small parking lot right out front, as well as street parking. TIP: you do not wait at the shuttle lane in front of the hotel. As you face the hotel you need to walk to your right and go to the bus stop. That is where the shuttle stops at. We missed it because we were told to wait at the inn. The staff were not helpful and another shuttle driver said to go stand by the road. So follow our directions. Also, be about 5-10 minutes early because it arrives, and then leaves. No waiting.

Hiking South Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch

Starting elevation: 7,100′ ♦ Miles: 7.25 ♦ Elevation Loss: 5,135′

We had a bit of a debacle getting to the trailhead because we missed the shuttle. We were there at 5:45 am to get on the 6:00am shuttle but of course we were standing in the wrong Bright Angel Lodge Shuttle area. Thank you to the woman who quickly called the cab company and got the last one and even paid for us because we didn’t have cash. Life saver. We got to the trailhead at 6:15 am and we were on the trail by 6:25 am!

One of the craziest things about this national park is that no matter how many times you have been to Grand Canyon National Park, it makes your jaw drop seeing the views. It doesn’t matter how many pictures you see, or how many videos you watch, seeing the Grand Canyon in person is a magnificent thing.

This makes South Kaibab Trail one of the most beautiful hikes in the United States. There is no moment when you are left without a view. Most of the time you have to hike to the destination to see the incredible view. This hike, it starts with it and then doesn’t end.

There are multiple waypoints along the way. They create a short respite on the way up and on the way down to another amazing view! There is never a long stretch of time that you have before the next one comes up or you may think you hit one because of a view, waterfall or stream. If you can’t make it all the way to Phantom Ranch, any of the waypoints would make a great hike to get below the rim.

Ooh Ahh Point (1.8 miles R/T with 800′ elevation change)

This way point is very popular. Probably the most popular in the park. Believe me, once you get there, no matter what, it will make you ohh and ahh. Or just stop and stare in amazement.

Cedar Ridge (3 miles R/T with 1,120′ elevation change)

The sun rise was so amazing as we hiked along. Cedar Ridge provided a beautiful spot to take it in.

Skeleton Point (6 miles R/T with 2,040′ elevation change)

This is where we the park suggests not to go farther. There are signs that say, “going down is a choice, going up is mandatory.”

The Tip Off (9 miles R/T with 3,280′ elevation change)

Tip Off is the last major way point before there isn’t anything until Phantom Ranch. There are bathrooms and a place to sit in the shade.

The next sign you see is this. You get a view of the Colorado river and it looks so close!

Once you reach the tunnel, that is when you know you have reached the cross over point. It’s dark, but unfortunately it doesn’t cool you down.

After the bridge it will have you circle back underneath to head along the river towards Phantom Ranch. You are now on the north side of the river.

Remember this point as this is where you will return to head to Bright Angel Trail. Getting to Phantom Ranch here adds very little to the overall hike so it is worth it. This is also where you would head up to the north rim if you were doing a rim to rim.

We hit Phantom Ranch at 7.25 miles and after 5,135′ in elevation drop!

Then of course, one of their famous lemonades! It sometimes baffles me why a hike starts to peak my interest. Something as simple as a lemonade did it. Initially all the views didn’t even cross my mind. Scroll farther down to learn more about Phantom Ranch and what it offers.

Hiking Bright Angel Trail from Phantom Ranch to the South Rim

Starting elevation: 2,000′ ♦ Miles 10.75 ♦ Elevation Gain: 4,875′

After your well deserved lemonade at Phantom Ranch it is time to start the climb to the top!

To get to Bright Angel from Phantom Ranch you have two bridge crossings. The first is where the trails meet and the second is to get over the Colorado.

After taking a right off the second bridge it stays relatively flat for about two miles as you hike along the Colorado river. You will hit a fork in the trail. To the right you can go to the beach (a hike that some do from the rim) and to the left you start your climb to the top!

It is gradual with switchbacks and it runs along a stream. About a mile after the fork in the trail is where I started to feel the affects of heat exhaustion. We were lucky enough to have shade, a bag of ice from a nice man at Phantom Ranch and a place to sit in the shade. It took me about 30-45 minutes but I was finally able to move on. I dipped my hat in the water at each crossing and that kept me going along with the water stops along the trail. We were incredibly lucky with all the cloud coverage. The week after our hike there wasn’t a single cloud in the sky. As I mentioned, we chose to go up this way because of the waypoints with water. Make sure to confirm that before you leave on your hike, as there is supposed to be potable water at all of them, but one did not.

Havsupai Gardens and Campground (9 miles R/T with 3,040′ elevation change)

This is a large area with a campground, places to sit, toilets and potable water to refill your packs, bladders or pouches.

Three Mile Resthouse (6 miles R/T with 2,120′ elevation change)

When we got here, we learned that there was no potable water. There was a sign hanging from the water spigot. This doesn’t mean you can’t use the water to cool off. Which we definitely did!

Mile-and-a-Half Resthouse(3 miles R/T with 1,120′ elevation change)

This is the last water stop on your way up. There is a place to sit with shade and a high pressure water spigot. We had the feeling of being so close at this point but looking up it still looked so far away. The trail starts getting a lot busier here. This seemed to be the waypoint that some thought would be easy to get to and back up.

Second Tunnel (1.8 miles R/T with 800′ elevation change)

A lot of people hike down to this spot for the view and to get below the rim.

The waypoint stats were spot on for us. Once you crest and hit the top, you are immediately hit with reality again and are surrounded by the hoards of tourists. It was almost a shock, but we made it and that is what we celebrated!

Hiking past the mules

While you hike on the trail there is a good chance that you will either pass or get passed by mules. There are places along the trail where it looks like there is a trail to the side, that is actually for people when the mules pass. They will, of course, announce themselves and you are asked to step aside and do not interact with the mules. If you are coming up to them the employees getting them down are very aware of you and they will stop the mules and allow you to pass on that side trail. You walk slowly and again without interacting with the mules.

Visiting Phantom Ranch in Grand Canyon National Park

Notice: Bright Angel Trail will be closed from Havasupai Gardens to Silver Bridge October 21, 2024 through May 14, 2025. The only way all the way down from the South Rim to Phantom Ranch is South Kaibab Trail.

Phantom Ranch is a really cool place to get to. There is a campground, lodge, canteen, restaurant, stream, ranger station and toilets. The reservation you need to stay in the campground or in a cabin is an incredibly hard to get permit. A lot of people stay here for a night or two and then start their hike back to the top. The only people that can make reservations at the restaurant are for people staying overnight. For day hikers it is a great place to rest. The lemonade was ice cold and on a hot day it was so nice. You can also get a cold beer! You can also get ice, snacks and some other things you may need like sun screen or Tylenol. There are picnic tables that you can use to rest. People are chatty and you can meet a lot of cool people here. It felt like a right of passage getting to this spot on a day hike. A dream come true in a sense.

More information about the permit for Phantom Ranch: CLICK HERE

Hiking Tips for Grand Canyon National Park

♦ The first tip is the heat. You may not feel it at the rim, but as I said it can be 20+ degrees hotter at the bottom, which makes your climb out of the canyon that much harder. You are climbing in elevation to about 7,000′ all the while it feels like it is 90 degrees plus. This can effect people without notice. These signs are everywhere and are no joke. At most of the major trail heads there are signs that say what you should do depending on your current hiking ability. It is there to help after many many rescues.

♦ This hike in its entirety requires good hiking shoes/trail running shoes, plenty of water, snacks and hiking poles if you are used to using them. The elevation gain and loss is intense, and so poles can definitely help. A small bottle of sun screen, bandaids/mole skin, chapstick, zip lock bag with some toilet paper (you can use it for ice on your way up) and a hat.

♦ No dogs are allowed below the rim.

♦ DO NOT FEED ANY ANIMALS or approach them!

♦ Practice Leave No Trace.

Make sure to not miss where we hike to next or add to your bucket list!

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